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April 21, 2014

Tales of the City by Armistead Maupin – My self guided tour of San Francisco

by Jason Dutton-Smith
28 Barbary Lane - aka Macondray Lane

“This is a must read!” a friend of mine exclaimed with excitement “but be warned, you’ll be hooked from the start!” Snickering under my breath I studied the front cover and wondered what this Tales of the City was all about. I mean we’ve all heard the claim before – the one that will supposedly rock our world, one that we just won’t be able to put down. Well, as it turns out, he was right.

Tales of the City brings a diverse range of friends together, in the liberated, go-go world of 1970s San Francisco. Each kooky and lovable character is brought richly to life by the writer, one Armistead Maupin who tantalizingly shares with us the drama, silly shenanigans and heartbreak of 28 Barbary Lane, the apartment complex where much of the story is set.

With a devoted following, the books have long since achieved classic status and the Tales of the City series goes on to finish with its last three books which were released in 2007, 2010 and 2014.  I soon found that I was reading them every chance I could, morning and night. What has this friend done to me? I had become obsessed! So there was only one thing to do after that.

Tales, more tales and further tales of the city…

After reading these raw, honest and beautifully written books, I become equally excited when I found out that the first three books were turned into a made-for-TV mini-series. This is one DVD box set that I had to get!

With a wonderful cast and the beautiful city of San Francisco as a backdrop, the characters, and the vibrant city were suddenly brought to life, all while remaining true to the books. If it’s possible, the books were even enhanced by this cleverly adopted TV mini-series. And they were all there, from Michael ‘Mouse’ Tolliver, his best friend Mona, kooky and mysterious landlady Mrs Madrigal, the innocent and slightly naive Mary-Anne Singleton and many more.

As it turns out, there are many ‘tales’ to this city. The well developed characters and fascinating story line reveal twists and turns at every corner. We soon find out that nothing is what it seems at the famous 28 Barbary Lane – and everyone has a secret.

Map, camera, action…

Last week during a quick visit to San Francisco for business I found myself with a few hours to spare and knew exactly what I was going to do. Having only been in America for a few days, my jet-lag was still pestering me and I found myself awake early. So I readied myself for the early start and rugged up to brave the crisp and biting San Francisco air as the morning fog continued rolling in across the bay. I grabbed my map and set out on foot for my very own Tales of the City tour.

Now anyone that has been to San Francisco understands just how steep the streets can be. It’s quite a work out when on foot and thankfully the first part was downhill, but I was ready to discover what I could in the short few hours I had available.

Setting off from the top of Nob Hill I weaved past several landmarks and points of interest from the book and movies, winding down to Russian Hill and ending alongside Fisherman’s Wharf. While only able to cover a small portion of the many scenes in the books and mini-series, I thoroughly enjoyed what I had seen. Here are a few snaps of what I discovered along the way.

I started with this map from Armistead Maupin’s website where it plots the main locations from the books and mini-series.

Tales of the City locations

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

I then made my way to where it all started. The famous steps of 28 Barbary Lane. The real name is actually Macondray Lane, located between Green and Union St on Taylor St. Blink and you will miss it but once there be sure to walk to the top of the stairs and along the lane itself to see some the best of San Francisco architecture and scenery.


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28 Barbary Lane - aka Macondray Lane

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

Top of stairs at 28 Barbary Lane

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

Stairs of 28 Barbary Lane

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

View from top of stairs - 28 Barbary Lane. Overlooking the foggy bay and city.

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

View of lane way of 28 Barbary Lane

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

Dede and Beauchamp’s penthouse apartment in the mini-series was located at 1360 Montgomary Street, Nob Hill. This famous building has been used in other films, most notably in the 1958 Alfred Hitchcock thriller Vertigo.

Dede and Beachamp's apartment - 1000 Mason St

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

When Mary Ann Singleton first went to  San Francisco for an 8 day holiday, she found herself in the popular bar of the Buena Vista on day five drinking Irish Coffee and contemplating what was ahead of her. Should she stay in San Francisco? Mary Ann then left the bar to call her mother back in Cleveland, Ohio.

Buena Vista - 2765 Hyde Street near Fisherman's Wharf. Where Mary Ann Singleton drank on arrival to San Francisco.

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

Anna Madrigal would meet Edgar Halcyon in different parks around the city. They would often meet to have lunch, talk and laugh about life and the problems of the day. Washington Square Park was one of these parks.

Washington Square park - a meeting location of Anna Madrigal and Edgar Halcyon. Cnr Columbus and union Street.

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

In the second book More Tales of the City Mary Ann met a handsome stranger by the name of Burke Andrew during a cruise to Mexico with friend Michael. Burke, suffering from amnesia began to have rose triggered flashbacks. The rose decorated stained-glass window of Grace Cathedral became an integral part in this mysterious story line.

Grace Cathedral - The rose window that gave Burke flash backs. 1100 California Street.

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

Beauchamp, Dede’s husband at the time was an interesting character. The secretive, handsome and popular Beauchamp Day would often mingle and conduct business with other socialites and dignitary at the Pacific Union Club. This exclusive club was a beautiful brown coloured building that sat high and proud on top of Nob Hill.

Pacific Union Club - Visited by Beauchamp Day - 1000 California Street

Tales of the City locations pinned to a map available on Armistead Maupin’s website.

 

Although this was a completely fictitious series of novels, the characters are so intriguing and lovable, most with an innocent and often hilarious side that I can highly recommend reading the series. And next time you find yourself lost in the city of San Francisco, create your own memorable tales of the city.

For a personally signed copy of the books, visit Armistead Maupin’s website.

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